MILAN (AP) — Milan Fashion Week wrapped up five staggered days of catwalking for next season, marked both by a sense of relief that strict pandemic rules are easing but by growing distress over war. in Ukraine.
“It’s a very sad time, and that’s why we’re trying to bring some love, peace and harmony,” designer Dan Caten said backstage at DSquared2.
A lone protester stood poignantly outside performances on Sunday, vying for attention, with a ‘Putin, stop bombing Ukraine’ sign, and yellow and blue balloons, for the flag of the besieged country.
Highlights from Sunday’s previews, mainly of womenswear, for next spring and summer, held as thousands gathered in central Milan to demand peace:
BOTTEGA VENETA RESET
Bottega Veneta hit the refresh with creative direction by Matthieu Blazy.
The new creative director sent a clear message of renewal with the first look from his debut collection on Saturday night: a white tank top and what appeared to be jeans, but were deceptively made of soft nubuck. Call it a palate cleanser.
And with this simple gesture, Blazy drew a straight line back to the Venetian brand’s roots as a leather goods company, and its understated sophistication that has at times been overshadowed by the tufted “intrecciato” (woven) leather mules of its predecessor and Bags.
The French designer brought new creative twists to the label: the season’s bag is the brand’s classic woven intreccio slung over the shoulder, unworn but grabbed by a long shoulder strap without the conventional buckle.
The clothes themselves were defined by movement, which Blazy says in notes relates to the brand’s heritage bags as objects suggestive of travel, at the very least getting out of the house.
They included a mid-length A-line skirt with a bustle of shredded leather, for a feathery rustle with every step from the sculpted platform heel. Airy sequined cocktail dresses with feather detailing were paired with knee-high boots in bright scarab green, off-white or silver. Rounded, sculpted straps give life to sheath dresses, enhanced by a plaited clutch elegantly studded with gold dots.
Julianne Moore and Raf Simons, the Prada designer who was Blazy’s boss for a time at Calvin Klein, had a front row seat at the brand’s new headquarters behind Milan City Hall. The space was still under construction, with walls made of raw concrete blocks and the reinforcements of the dome still visible.
FERRARI MAKES ITS DEBUT ON THE TRACK IN MILAN
Ferrari has unveiled its first Milan collection, as it continues its expansion from a supercar company to a luxury goods brand with track cachet.
“Our first show was in Maranello because of course it’s our home town and it was important to start there. Now we are in Milan because it is the capital of fashion and it has a very strong relationship with the future,” creative director Rocco Iannone said backstage.
The runway looks maintained the brand’s ties to the racing world, with leather pants and matching racing jackets with padded elbows and geometric detailing, all sure to find favor with fans.
Iannone has added new prints this season: a camo version in royal blue, black and grey, using the brand’s Prancing Pony logo, and a more abstract print taken from computer imagery of speed tests performed on racing machines . They appeared on sweaters, dresses, jackets accessories.
Sheer tops embellished with Swarovski crystals subtly embellished with the Ferraro logo to create evening looks for all genders, worn with elegant cargo pants or silver suits.
Ferrari opened stores in Maranello, Milan and Rome this year, with further openings planned in the United States in the coming months, including Miami, Atlanta and Austin. The first collection launched last June, and insiders say sales in China have been particularly strong. Stores will open there at the end of next year in Shanghai and Beijing.
DSQUARED2 GOES BOHEMIAN
Layered bohemian looks have flooded the DSquared2 runway for upcoming fall and winter, making Gen Z cravings all the way as Canadian designer twins Dean and Dan Caten look to the next generation of luxury consumers.
The collection offers a multitude of entry points: from cropped sweaters to knit dresses; from sheepskin booties to knee-high boots; from sheepskin-lined waistcoats to wool jackets; long tartan kilts left open over fuzzy pants. Baubles suitable for any summer music festival round out the looks, along with backpacks, knit hats and water bottles.
“It’s a new energy. She’s young, she’s modern, she’s bohemian, free,” Dean Caten said. “It’s texture and texture. It’s not just one thing anymore. »
QUIRA IS BORN
Designer Veronica Leoni worked alongside Jil Sander herself and Phoebe Philo at Celine before launching her new label Quira last year.
Her vast experience is expressed not only in the designs of her first winter collection, but also in her clear ambition: “I want to make the best black jacket you can find on the market,” she said.
Leoni will face big names for this title, and the goal belies its main driver: to recreate an everyday wardrobe with hidden details that delight. Its focus is on style more than function. “Function makes clothes generic. The style makes them special,” she said.
Leoni, 38, reinvents the 1990s sheath-jacket combo with a pleated dress that falls into a jagged hem, worn with a pleated cape, all in a sleek tan. A trench coat is stripped of its bonded fabric, without lapels, and made reversible. And a black car coat has been reimagined with a fluted waist and bell sleeves, a more feminine version of itself.
She finishes the looks with platform hippie clogs and essential shiny leather boots that ground the looks, as well as a molded shoulder bag.
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